This is evocatively aromatic, like a berry patch in summer—all juicy black, blue and raspberry fruit with a scrubby edge of wild thyme and a sprinkle of cocoa powder. Hickinbotham’s signature dusty, savory tannins frame a palate that is both sturdy enough for the long haul but succulent enough now for protein-friendly sipping. Hickinbotham. Hidden Gem. Points: 95/100
Hand picked, destemmed and gently crushed, basket pressed, 16 days on skins and matured in French oak barriques of which 50% was new for 12 months. There is Merlot and then there is MERLOT, a wine with heart and soul and a gentleness guiding pressure of oak. This has it all in spades and then some. Black cherries, carob and stewed plums. There are Rosella flowers and a ground black sesame paste. Some bayleaf and thistle. Acidity walks an ascending line without artifact and the wine manages that leisurely form that only merlot can provide. Satisfying, flavour and harmonious. Some powdery tannins mean this will age another 4-5 years gracefully. Beef and black bean stir fry would set this off nicely. Points: 95/100
The 2022 Merlot The Revivalist is muscular in style, offering dense and punchy aromas of blackberry compote, black olive and cedar with a serious frame of oak. It is ripe, rich and heavyset, with oak tannins and jammy fruit delivering a long, strong finish that lacks delicacy. Points: 92/100
From two blocks planed in 1976 and 1989. Crushed fruit, ambient ferment, with 16 days on skins; matured in French barriques (60% new) and foudre for 12 months. Merlot has had a tough trot in this country, but Californian winemaker Chris Carpenter is well schooled in the ways of the grape. This harnesses a more rounded fruit profile, but also with proper linear tannins and drive. It’s a relatively elegant expression, though with a depth of plum and mulberry, subtle florals, graphite, roasted hazelnut and a balanced gloss of classy oak. Points: 95/100
A rich, plusher expression of merlot, at least in an Australian context. Tomato leaves, Damson plums and ferrous tannins directing solid length. Drink or hold. Screw cap. Points: 92/100
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