Bright, transparent red. More subtle on the nose than most. Very fine tannins indeed, with a certain graininess – because of the concrete? The overall impression is less obviously sweet than many of these Oz Grenaches but it should develop well. Tight-textured. Points: 17/20
This vintage sees a step up in collected wild floral tones. Hyacinths, freesia and lilac. Alongside floats punnets of raspberries, apple and strawberry sorbet and Ikea lingonberry syrup (pick some up when you get your meatballs). The palate is wired like a spring, flirty red fruit shows its more demure side with sappy and succulent tannins taking the lead with a smoke show of mediterranean souk spices. Sumac, sweet paprika and cumin. There is a thirst quenching element to the wine, refreshing but chewy to boot. Uncommon in its fluorescent core of red fruit but intricate in its woven textural palate. Designed for drinking young and with all the stuffing to be capable of cellaring and developing in complexities for another decade. Today I’d drink this with Korean gimbap with extra kimchi sides. Points: 96/100
Really fresh strawberries and candied raspberries burst out of the glass, there is a confected nature to the fruit here that is so inviting. These confected fruits are met with red liquorice and freshly crushed fennel seeds that tempers the sweet attack of the fruit. The palate is driven by lovely fresh yet ripe strawberries and cherries. This wine may sound fun and playful, however the more-ish texture built around those crushed fennel seeds adds a serious dimension to this wine, providing length and concentration.
15% whole bunches fermented in oak and stainless steel. Maturation in concrete and seasoned French oak barrels. Lavender and Forget Me Not florals, blueberry skin and Mirabelle plums. Cocoa nib, Hhawthorn and shiso leaf. Crinkle cut tannins and puckering acidity. The palate is linear with the stretch of a slinky. A subtle hint of poppy seed and kampot pepper on the finish. A wine to outlast many a tik tok trend, this will age gracefully and those brooding spices will unfurl. Drink now but will reward with 5-8 years cellaring. A wine that would look pretty smick with duck pancakes. Points: 96/100
Soft aromas of gunsmoke and red berries. Extraordinary drive and persistence in this nimble-footed, medium-bodied wine, sourced from a sandy vineyard planted in 1939. The lean cherry and firm wild raspberry flavours have great length, bound by sober tannins. Points: 95/100
Deep, bright red-purple colour with dominant nutmeg-spice aromas, and a full-bodied, firm palate that seems tight and a little unresolved at this stage. It's firm and deep, and looks to have more to reveal if given time. Certainly the concentration and palate length are very promising. A serious grenache! Points: 94/100
The second release of the MMAD Vineyard label, and off its 1939-planted Blewitt Springs vineyard. About 15% whole bunches, fermented in wood and steel, maturation in concrete and large old French oak. Unlike the 2022 shiraz, this takes time to emerge from the glass. It’s all there, though. There’s a brooding quality at present, with nori, iodine and ferrous notes filtering up through dark red cherry, plum, raspberry and sultry florals. Some spicy, musky characters emerge with air. Tannin is a meaningful factor, a pleasingly natural grape-derived affair, rugged but never rustic. A seriously compelling wine, and further proof of how thrilling McLaren Vale grenache is right now, for both its quality and the unparalleled diversity in top-flight expressions. Points: 97/100
This is ballistically good. I doubt that I’ll taste anything much better from these shores over the next 12 months. The first thing you notice is the plushness, which is always welcome, but it’s the the finish that takes things to eleven. Wow, really, this wine has a show-stopping finish on it. It’s blessed with red and blue berry flavours, cedarwood, roasted spice and earth, but itemising the flavours of this wine kind of misses the point. It’s like focussing on the colour of a tidal wave. The complete and utter command of the final flourish of flavour and tannin here feels, as you swallow, like a high water mark. I’m sold, totally sold, on this wine. Points: 97/100
The second release of the MMAD Vineyard label, and off its 1939-planted Blewitt Springs vineyard. About 15% whole bunches, fermented in wood and steel, maturation in concrete and large old French oak. Unlike the 2022 shiraz, this takes time to emerge from the glass. It’s all there, though. There’s a brooding quality at present, with nori, iodine and ferrous notes filtering up through dark red cherry, plum, raspberry and sultry florals. Some spicy, musky characters emerge with air. Tannin is a meaningful factor, a pleasingly natural grape-derived affair, rugged but never rustic. A seriously compelling wine, and further proof of how thrilling McLaren Vale grenache is right now, for both its quality and the unparalleled diversity in top-flight expressions. Points: 97/100
