Fruit off three sites, whole-bunch pressed to French barriques and puncheons, 35% new, wild fermentation, mlf, and aged on lees stirred weekly. It’s super tight and lean with loads of lemony flavour, some smoky sulphides and spicy, toasty oak, which adds an extra layer of flavour and texture. So, too, does the light layering of creamy lees. It certainly puts the fresh into refreshment. Needs food. Points: 94/100
Light to mid depth of straw-yellow colour; aromas of almond meal and smoky reduction dominate the nose to the exclusion of primary fruit. The wine is intense and lively in the mouth, albeit driven again by the artifact characters although there is intense citrusy fruit as well. Has keeping properties, too. Points: 91/100
Fruit off three of the region’s oldest vineyards, two at altitudes higher than 700m and one at 500m; hand picked, whole-bunch pressed to 35% new French barriques and puncheons; wild fermentation and mlf, left on lees and stirred regularly, aged about 10 months. Despite all those winemaking inputs, this remains feather-light and very appealing. Lemon blossom, ginger flowers and cinnamon. Some creamy lees, stone fruit and oak spices add to the palate, which is superfine and tight. The Tumbarumba acidity leads this to a fresh end. Points: 93/100
