Jane Faulkner
From now on, the reserves, both pinot noir and chardonnay, are made with fruit off the home block (plantings from ’82, ’88 and ’96) and the single-block wines made when they don’t detract from the reserves. It’s a good move, an honest one, and here resulting in an excellent wine. Plenty of detail and complexity with the citrusy fruit off-set by the winemaking inputs. It’s tangy and juicy, layered with creamy lees, the right amount of spiced oak, moreish and savoury with mouth-watering sulphides. Very smart. Points: 95/100