Medium-full colour with a subtle tint of purple; dusty/fusty stalky aromas dominate, with a sprinkle of white pepper. The wine is lean and sinewy, lacking fruit-sweetness and succulence, tense and tapered on the palate with slightly obvious acidity complicit in a touch of astringency. This is very good, but it's one for the whole-bunch lovers. Food needed. Points: 93/100
Estate fruit off three blocks; the original, KBS and Windmill. 20% whole bunches in the fermentation and aged in French barriques, 11% new. What is pleasing with this Reserve is that it's all about elegance. Nothing is forced, it's not extracted; instead, it's perfumed, enticing and detailed. Earthy and red fruited, with cardamon and chinotto, blood orange and zest, the mid-weighted palate alive with juicy acidity and tempered by filagree tannins. This is Julian Ground's first full vintage since taking over. His arrival bodes well for Stonier (he's a co-owner); exciting to have this producer back on track. Points: 96/100
You see the whole bunches (25% of the Windmill block portion), you see the fruit, you see the seduction. It's such a neat wine but it's so layered and giving, in a balanced/structured way. Bitter chocolate, red berries, some herbs, plenty of spices and earth. Love how emphatic the finish is, so structural and yet so perfectly powered with flavour. This is great. It's bitter and it's luscious in the best of ways. Stonier never went away, it's been excellently served by fantastic winemakers throughout its history, and yet this wine makes me think that Stonier is back. Points: 96/100
