Marcus Ellis
From the estate’s 13-odd hectares of 1946-planted dry-grown bush vines. It’s a precious resource and is treated as such. The making is quiet: half crushed, half whole berries, gentle pump-overs, some long maceration to detail tannins, then old foudre, puncheons, ceramic eggs and amphorae. There’s a more generous feel to this release, with the year a tad warmer. Wild raspberry, ripe Bing cherry, warm terracotta, fading roses, fennel seeds and caraway. It’s a wine of intensity and grace, with the old vines yielding a silky charm to the feel and flavour intensity, with a finish of considerable verve and stylishly etched tannins. The last three releases are all so different, and all of the highest order. 95+ Points: 95/100