Christina Pickard
One of those wines that changes in glass every time you taste it, Ovitelli ’22 is (at first) ferrous, then earthy then mushroomy. Eventually it opens to reveal complex aromas of wild strawberry and an array of dried herbs and florals. The time on skins within a selection of Yangarra’s now-famed army of ceramic eggs gives a distinctive texture to the tannins, like licking the concrete itself. But it never overwhelms, thanks to the elegant fruit and tangy red berried acidity. Chiseled and foodfriendly, with Euro-vibes. Yangarra Estate Vineyard. Points: 94/100