Marcus Ellis
Half from Blewitt Springs (80-year-old vines) and half further south; 20% whole bunch, with 10 months in seasoned oak. As always, a clear bottle and a pale hue, speaking to application perhaps. And yes, immediacy seems the remit, the wine bright and forward, but thoughtfully so. It's spicy and zippy, sans confection, filigreed in texture, with a sour-fruited, rhubarb-laced tension adding complexity, a graphite mineral note elevating further. This fits the – sometimes tiresome – warm-climate pinot noir comparison, but it also shouts grenache, the arriviste that we should all be paying more attention to. A delight. Points: 93/100