Ken Gargett
Talking to younger winelovers these days, most of them look down their nose at the Cabernet Sauvignon grape, in complete contrast to the reverence given to it by their parents. Mention Margaret River, however, and their attitude changes. If there is one region in Australia still beloved for its extraordinary Cabernets, then this is it. This wine spent a year in French oak barriques, 30% of them new. The fruit comes from the team’s high-density plantings on their Kyella Vineyard in Wilyabrup. Gleaming magenta with a purple rim, on the nose we have aromas of plums, blackberries, grapeseed, tobacco leaves, aniseed, coffee grinds and dark chocolate, alongside quality oak integration. There is good focus here, as well as energy and balance. The wine is of medium to good length, finishing with a fine line of acidity and sleek yet granular tannins. It will provide serious pleasure over the next ten to twelve years. You can pay a lot more money than this for quality Margaret River Cabernet and find it falls short of what this wine provides. Points: 94/100
