Southern Light Vineyards Ghostgum Chardonnay 2023

Let’s climb the mountain of high-end Mornington wine again, hey? Everything so far from the Southern Light Vineyards project has been a winner, with the 2023 Pinot Noir spot on, which was a step up on the super 2022 releases. What is most impressive about this Chardonnay is the power – it’s a wall of a wine, bound up in and phenolic density, yet topped off with lively acidity. That push-pull power and tang contrast is what helps Corton and other wildly expensive white Burgundy to seduce strangers, and it’s in abundance here. Pear, fig, a little caramel and peach (though you wouldn’t call this ripe and full) on first whiff suggest opulence, but it’s otherwise a grapefruit and pear-driven wine, with contained concentration the order of the day. Refreshing, robust but not heavy, and properly intense, it’s a white wine of unbridled ambition looking the goods. Points: 95/100

Australian Wine Review ∙ 9th Aug 2025

So pure and focused with aromas of lemon pith, hazelnuts, green melon, grapefruit, baking spices and flint. The medium-bodied palate has high-tension acidity and generous mouthfeel, showing orange blossoms, green apples, lime curd and salted nuts. Lovely energy and minerality will unravel nicely for years to come. Drink or hold. Points: 95/100

jamessuckling.com ∙ 11th Jul 2025