Anthony Fikkers playing with the Mornington Peninsula fruit for the first time under the new Joval’s label, Southern Light Vineyards. He says he ‘yarrafied’ the MP Pinot. Sounds murderous. The Ghostgum Vineyard lays at the top of Main Ridge on red volcanic soils. 300 dozen made. Quiet nose at first, needs a moment to open up. It’s low key, showing mineral tones of wet rocks, sous-bois, savoury and meaty elements, dead flowers. It ventures strongly into the umami zone. Spice and clean plummy fruit on the palate, it has a beautiful detail, sour juice and a hint of liquorice and nougat that develops in the glass. There’s a fair bit of whole bunch in here, but well tucked in, not sticking out. Tannins are supportive and in the background. Finished on a blood orange, herbal amaro lift. Nicely ‘yarrafied’.
Points: 92/100
The Wine Front ∙ 1st Sep 2023