Jane Faulkner
Pitiful yields in ’22 meant Anthony Fikkers made the wine he liked the best: fruit off four blocks, four clones, fermented as one with 10% whole bunches, which still packs a punch; 10 months in French hogsheads, 20% new. It’s such an intriguing wine. An austere style, which is totally legit, full of sichuan pepper, poached rhubarb, a little ashy and stemmy, plus an array of cherry accents. There’s also a strong chinotto flavour with salted, dried Chinese plums. Mid-weighted, a fineness to the tannins, the palate awash with sweet-ish fruit, which offsets the charred radicchio/bitter finish. It will only garner more complexity with age. Points: 93/100