Marcus Ellis
From the Brini vineyard, Blewitt Springs, off 50-year-old vines; even split between tank and barrel, with a new Austrian puncheon among older French barrels. There’s a pithy grip to this, an apple-skin burr, knitting into the lees-built texture of regular bâtonnage, with flavours of baked green apple and fresh pink Cripps, peach kernel, wild herbs, a ginger/galangal note, a brininess, some cinnamon and riverstone. Quietly complex and quite the pleasure to drink. Points: 94/100